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Izakaya basics: how a Japanese pub dinner works
The table charge, how ordering works, what to order for a group, and how to pay at the end.
An izakaya is a Japanese pub that serves lots of small dishes to share alongside drinks. It is where many locals eat dinner, and one of the most fun meals of a trip.
How it works
- Staff shout a greeting as you enter. You do not need to answer.
- Show how many people with your fingers. You are seated, often with a tablet or QR code for ordering.
- A small appetiser arrives without you ordering it. This is the otoshi, a table charge, usually ¥300–600 per person.
- Order a first round of drinks right away, then food in small rounds through the evening.
- When finished, ask for the bill and pay at the till by the door.
What to order
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Edamame | Salted soybeans in the pod |
| Karaage | Japanese fried chicken |
| Yakitori | Grilled chicken skewers, with salt or sweet sauce |
| Sashimi platter | Raw fish of the day |
| Potato salad | Creamy, chunky and surprisingly good |
| Tamagoyaki | Rolled omelette |
| Rice ball or noodles | Ordered at the end to finish the meal |
Drinks
- Draft beer is the classic first drink.
- Highball: whisky and soda.
- Sour: shochu with lemon or other fruit.
- Sake: served cold or warm.
- Nomihodai: all-you-can-drink for a fixed time, often 90 or 120 minutes, popular with groups.
Smoking
Most restaurants in Tokyo are non-smoking indoors, but some small bars and izakaya still allow it. Look for a sign at the door.
Paying
Many izakaya split the bill by table, not by person. Work out who owes what among yourselves. Larger chains take cards; smaller places may be cash only.
Useful phraseTo get staff attention, raise a hand and say "sumimasen" (excuse me). It is normal and not rude.
